“For more than 4000 years, the deep ‘green fire’ of emerald has been treasured as a symbol of eternal spring and immortality. Shrouded in myth and lore, they are ornaments of power and politics that have created legends and moulded world history. Prized by Egyptians, Romans, Aztecs, Crowned heads of Europe, and gems connoisseurs the world over. This article takes you through the pages of history to the present day for tracing the journey of the green darling.”
Emerald:
More than any other precious gemstone, Emerald has sparked the eternal fires of the collective imagination as it is known as a harbinger of wisdom, growth, and patience. The birthstone for May and the traditional gift for the 55th wedding anniversary are considered symbolic of love and fidelity. The ancient Greeks dedicated emeralds to Venus, the goddess of love. Traditionally, in Hindu astrology, if your weakest planet, according to your horoscope, is Mercury, Emerald is your ideal gemstone. It is worn to promote healing and enhance love and contentment.
LEGEND:
The romance with Emeralds dates back to ancient Egypt and Rome. It is said that Cleopatra was always adorned with emeralds. The earliest emeralds date from the Ptolemaic era (320-30 B.C.), and there have been discoveries of mining tools going back to Ramses II (1300 B.C.) or even before. In the Middle Ages, deposits were also uncovered near Salzburg, Austria. By the 16th century, Colombia became the most celebrated diamond producer, with gemstones traded throughout South America. The Romans dedicated emeralds to Venus, the Goddess of Beauty. Then, it symbolized the reproductive forces of nature. For the early Christians, it represented resurrection. Mummies were often buried with emeralds, and the gems were popular in ancient Rome.
In the sixteenth century, the Spanish Conquistadors were amazed to find the native people wearing emeralds more extensive and magnificent than any they had ever seen. Although the natives attempted to hide their emerald mines, the Spaniards soon discovered and conquered most of them. It took twenty years to find the large mining operation held by the Muzo Indians and another thirty years to overtake this aggressive tribe. The Muzo mine was in the area known today as Colombia; it remains the source of the most prized emerald specimens.
OCCURANCE:
Colombian emeralds are among the world’s most beautiful, with rich grass-green colouring. Current key sources for emeralds include Colombia, Brazil, Pakistan, Africa and Russia. Most emeralds are Colombian, many from the renowned Muzo Mine, Chivor and Coscuez mines. Occasionally emeralds from Zambia and Brazil are sourced. Zambian emeralds are yellow-green, grey-green, and spinach green. Other gemstone colour varieties that belong to beryl include aquamarine, morganite, and heliodor. Unlike other beryls, emeralds often contain inclusions and other flaws. These flaws are not considered negative aspects for emeralds like they would be for other gemstones. Indeed, these flaws are considered part of the gemstone’s characteristics and are used to assure the purchaser about genuinity.
The largest emerald in the world is Gachala Emerald weighs 858 carats. This gemstone was found in 1967 at the Vega de San Juan mine in Colombia. It is currently on display at the National Museum of Natural History, USA.
USAGE:
Emerald is a precious gem that promotes creativity and perception. It also provides a natural tranquillizer when you are worried, or your mind is troubled. Emerald symbolizes serenity, success in love, wealth, happiness and peace of mind. It improves memory, cures insomnia, strengthens the immune system, helps restores youth, relieves neurological diseases, heals ear problems, and eases childbirth. Gazing at the green colour of emerald soothes the eyes and enhances eyesight. It cures epilepsy, diabetes and jaundice and is believed to cure leprosy if finely ground and applied as a poultice.
ESCALATING PRICE:
The escalating cost of gemstones for the consumer from traditional jewellers is due to the number of middlemen it passes through. Each adds a markup to support their business, from importer to wholesaler, to wholesale jeweller/dealer, to retail jeweller. According to The Dow Jones-Irwin Guide to Fine Gems & Jewellery by David Marcum, the average markup from wholesale to retail in a typical jewellery store for a US$5,000 piece of fine diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery is 100- 160%. In other words, a typical jeweller will buy (at wholesale) a diamond or coloured gemstone for US$5,000 and will likely sell it for $10,000-$13,000! As a result of purchasing through this traditional chain, one pays a considerably inflated amount for gems and jewellery.
Emeralds are priced per carat according to the gem’s colour, clarity and size. Exceptional stones of five carats or more have sold for as much as US$25,000 per carat! Good stones in the 1-2 carat range command the average US$1500-US$4500/carat. At 5-10 carats, finer stones can start at US$10,000/carat. Good stones of high clarity and colour are rare in sizes above 2 to 3 carats. Colour is highly prized; weak-coloured, light to medium green stones of excellent clarity up to 5 carats in length do not command the price of smaller, more included stones of better colour. The existence of synthetic (manufactured) gems can affect the price of natural (mined) gemstones. For example, the Chatham- created emerald, a lab-made gem, can sell at a stable price. Since this is a top-quality synthetic emerald, it has reduced the cost of natural emeralds.
Cut: The cut’s precision and delicacy dictate the emerald price. Emeralds are cut in various shapes, ranging from traditional rectangular step cut, known as “Emerald cut”, to rounds, ovals, squares and cabochons. Usually, heavily flawed gems are given cabochon cuts.
Colour: Emerald has different shades of green depending on the presence of chromium and vanadium. It can be grassy green/yellowish/ bluish green. The finest quality emerald bears a “lime Jell-O” colour. For emeralds, colour is the most crucial price-determining factor. Smaller emeralds with better colour command higher prices than the bigger stones, which are weak-coloured.
Clarity: Clarity and colour together dominate the price of the emerald as it is characterized by an abundance of inclusions which decreases the hardness and gives it a soft velvety appearance. Marked by the significant presence of inclusions like calcite, yellow-brown needles of the mineral, pyrite, albite and biotype inclusions, emeralds with both high clarity and good colour are extremely rare. An emerald with high transparency and higher caratage may be cheaper than a smaller emerald with good colour.
Carat: Good emeralds in the 1 to 2 carat range are sold for as much as US$25,000 per carat. “Commercial quality stones” (light to dark green, poor clarity) sell for US$50 to US$800 per carat in the 1 to 2 carat range.
SYNTHETIC EMERALDS:
Emeralds can be synthesized by both flux growth and hydrothermal processes. Some of these stones even have inclusions that make them look natural. Some dealers may claim a synthetic is “real,” which is technically correct since true synthetic gems have the same chemical characteristics as their natural counterparts. Still, a reputable jeweller will disclose that a gem is lab-grown.
Almost all emeralds are routinely enhanced to improve their appearance. Both natural and man-made fillers are commonly introduced into the fissures in emeralds to reduce their visibility. Oiling or infilling similar enhancements have been done on emeralds for a long time. These enhancements are not considered stable, as fillers come out when exposed to high heat. Nearly all emeralds are treated with oil (locally called ‘Joban’) or epoxy resins to fill in cracks, making the cracks less visible and improving transparency. Some oils are transparent, and some are tinted green to make the gems more vivid.
SEASONAL COLORED JEWELLERY TRENDS:
Spring 2022 brings in the softer colours of Caribbean, aqua, and seafoam blue-green shades. Jewellery with gemstones alternates between blending and adding a dash of colour to brighten modern styles, which capitalize on clean, streamlined designs for cosmopolitan chic and daily wear.
Chandelier earrings are being replaced by more linear styles. The only difference is that the linear type is a bit longer. A great way to transition from the chandelier to linear earrings is to buy linear ones that branch out a little, incorporating the style of chandeliers with a dash of colour gemstones to break the monotony. Chunky, bohemian/ethnic necklaces are in, with a few delicate types added on. You have heard of Halter neck dresses but have never heard of convertible halter -necklaces and shoulder strap necklaces that bring back the romance of the 50s. These are a must this season. An emerald ring teamed with diamonds looks elegant and sophisticated. Socialites love to spot a gemstone studded on white metal with diamonds to make the heads turn. Apart from ruby, emerald and sapphire, Neptune garden and smoky topaz have become a growing rage.
EMERALD JEWELLERY IN DEMAND OVERSEAS :
Antique jewellery lovers believe that emeralds are here to stay; they have captivated the hearts of many damsels since the days of Cleopatra. For centuries, jewellery artisans have used emeralds to create beautiful jewellery. Emeralds have a calming, soothing colour that soothes the soul and lush inclusions which intrigue the eye. Many of today’s emerald jewellery designs have the geometric styling and symmetry that was popular in the Art Deco period. Intricate patterns are set with emeralds and accented with pave set diamonds for a timeless, classic look. Also popular are garden designs with floral and leaf motifs; these patterns are complemented by the exciting colour of emerald.
In the West, emeralds are the popular choice of brides and women making self-purchase. In today’s mass-production era, machine-made designs, a delicately hand-crafted emerald ring, bracelet, or necklace have a unique appeal as an emotional connection to a jewellery piece to celebrate a memorable event. The jewellery becomes even more meaningful when hand-fashioned by a master craftsman.
famous emerald mines from around the world
Emeralds are a type of precious gemstone known for their bright green colour and are highly prized for their beauty and rarity. Here are a few famous emerald mines from around the world:
- Muzo, Colombia: The Muzo mine in Colombia is one of the most famous emerald mines in the world and is known for producing high-quality stones with a deep green colour. The mine has been in operation for over 500 years and is considered the birthplace of the Colombian emerald industry.
- Zambia: Zambia is home to several significant emerald mines, including the Kagem mine, the world’s largest emerald mine by production. The country is known for producing some of the finest emeralds in the world, with a vibrant green colour and excellent clarity.
- Brazil: Brazil is another major producer of emeralds, with several famous mines located in the country, including the Itabira mine in the state of Minas Gerais. Brazil is known for producing emeralds with a slightly bluish-green colour and large stones with excellent clarity.
- Madagascar: Madagascar is home to several emerald mines, including the Andranondambo mine, known for producing high-quality stones with a vibrant green colour. Madagascar’s emeralds are often prized in jewelry for their beauty and rarity.
- Russia: Russia is also home to several emerald mines, including the Malyshevo mine in the Ural Mountains, known for producing high-quality stones with a deep green colour. Russian emeralds are highly prized for their beauty and are often used in fine jewelry.
